Category Archives: Projects

Telescope Eyepiece Holder Replacement

Ok This first project is less about optics and more about solving a problem. Ever since I have had my telescope when I bought it at 15 on Craigslist, it has been missing the eyepiece holder on the focuser tube.

For the most part this wasn’t a problem as the focuser tube is very close to 1.25 inches and fits the eyepieces pretty snuggly. There is a little wobble which my impact image quality a bit and would just move the telescope to have the best image quality on the object of interest which was fine for me. The biggest risk was just the eyepiece falling out.

With the 3D Printer up and running I went about design a replacement. The final design can be found here on OnShape https://cad.onshape.com/documents/6c2b93c301d81fd13156a65c/w/dbd2b71c3528a5cccf87b7b3/e/df8993ec8ee1d7e4efd36834.

Model of the eyepiece holder.

It is a simple design with threads at the bottom to match the focuser and 3 holes to take threaded inserts for thumbscrews. On cheaper models there is only one screw, which is probably fine give my use case but three is supposed to allow you to hold the eyepiece more evenly and was easy enough to do. The best eyepiece holders use a compression ring which is a thin piece of metal with a gap around inside the ring, and the screws press in to shrink ring and press more evenly and prevent marring of the eyepiece. Maybe if I have free time someday I will try to make one like that.

The toughest part of this build was getting the thread pitch and tolerance correct. For the pitch I used calipers to measure the pitch to be about 0.75 mm and guessed it was likely a round number so when with that which turned out to be correct. The thread is an equilateral triangle of 0.7mm and the inner diameter was tuned to be a diameter of 35.6 mm by doing some quick test prints adjusting until it screwed snuggly onto the focuser. The thickness was just eyeballed to seem sturdy.

The final result with the thread inserts already placed and some placeholder screws until I can buy some thumbscrews:

Mechanical Clock Mechanism

(Conducted ~Nov 2024)

There is a popular Escapement Desk Toy on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3364860) I have been wanting to print. With the printer now functioning well, I got about printing the parts.

Improvements With Remixes

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3408585 has a pallet fork holder that is not as wide, attempting to place the pallet fork more in line with the escape wheel. And the original impact pin house has square edges and the pallet fork gets caught on it. The remix adds chamfers which reduces the amount it gets stuck.

This remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3753245 tweaks the angles of the pallet fork to help it release from the escape wheel. In the original Desing they are prone to bending.

These remixes helped but the biggest issue I found in my print was the pallet fork’s axis was too low causing it to bind. The lower fork was too far in and would impact pin wouldn’t move it far enough out to let the escape wheel move and the upper pallet fork was too far out and would often not stop the escape wheel, instead letting it skip. Lifting up the balance wheel and pallet fork sub-assembly with a couple of washers between the frame and the base got the mechanism acting more symmetrically on the escape wheel, and letting the mechanism run more reliably.

Remaining Issues

The mechanism is still pretty finicky. It can run for 5-10 seconds, but eventually something catches. There are other larger issues with the design. The biggest of which is the impact pin (and thus the balance wheel/spring) are in contact with the impact fork as the impact swings up. This is not desirable in a watch mechanism because the free oscillation of the balance wheel is what allows for accuracy (un-impeded oscillators have a constant period well without friction) and efficiency (i. Its operation is more like an early clock mechanism called a verge escapement which still has a spring, but each oscillation it jams into the escapement instead of swinging freely and leaving the pallet fork behind to hold the escapement.

I am not sure how much further I will take this build. For the moment, I have fulfilled my goals of having a toy mechanism I enjoy and is fun to show off, and to learn more about how escapements work. It might be fun to continue to tune this build to test my knowledge or start from scratch with my own design, or pick one that is better already published. For now, I will probably turn my eye towards other projects I have been wanting to try.

First Prints of a Benchy

(Conducted Oct 2024, Posted March 3, 20205)

Left: First print. 2nd from Left: Reduce print and bed temperature, 2nd From Right: After fixing the fan, Right: More success with another filament.

Explanation

Just got a printer 2nd hand from a craigslist . It is an Ender 3 pro with a Micro-swiss all metal hotend with bltouch bed sensor upgrades.

The first print came out pretty ugly, the bumps on the hull indicate that the print isn’t cooling sufficiently.

Given this, I turned down the print temperature and be temperature so it is easier for the filament to cool. This significantly improved results but the hull still showed slumping. The print temperature was now significantly lower than expected and much more sensitive to temperature than it should be. So I started looking for other cause of problem.

At this point, I realized the printer was suspiciously quite which led me to checking the filament cooling fan which was not running. After some poking around with settings which didn’t have any effect, I found that one of the wires for the fan had broken off. I got out the soldering and reattached it and…

Voila print #3 came out great! I threw in another filament (eSun black PLA+) I had just bought to try it out and make sure it was repeatable and also great.